to market we go

So I ate my way through New England this weekend.  Not really (yes, sorta!).  Not only did I stuff myself with brie and tomato omelets and cinnamon-y french toast at the B&B we stayed at, but then there was the chocolate-raspberry wedding cake, too!  I wish I had been more hungry, though, because I didn’t get to overindulge in one place I usually do – the farmer’s market!

After a refreshing mountain hike up Gile Mountain, we stopped at the Norwich, VT farmer’s market.  This market was as crisp and cool as the fall New England air!  The fresh cut flowers were cheerful, and the organic smell of wool abounded.  You could pretty much have breakfast, lunch, and pack up dinner here in one stop.  We made room for some homemade sugar donuts (who wouldn’t?) but wished we had room to indulge in the cozy display of fruit cobblers, carrot cake, tea biscuits, and something called ‘chili pie’.  The same elderly couple who fried up our donuts also had a vat of steaming veggie soup and a giant warming dish of pulled pork for sandwiches.

The stall was bordered by this giant wall of jams.  And jellies.  And spreads.  Oh, also, preserves.  And a few sauces.  And dressings.  Plus, pickles.  All homemade?  Of course.  This picture is just a section of the giant wall of condiment heaven.

Amidst the expected (but still comforting) offerings of neat amber rows of maple syrup, and giant cousin-It sized balls of dyed sheep’s wool yarn, was the most popular stall of all.  No, not the wild game freezer with the foreboding biker-proprietor.  Nope, it was the African food stall.  A long line of hungry people waited for their North and West African fare, from crispy hot falafels to an aromatic savory veggie stew over rice.   Apparently, stew is delicious even at 11AM when the spicy smell is too enticing to pass up.

My favorite stall, however, was the pepper pile-up in the back.  Gorgeous, glossy peppers by the bushelfull, spilled out over a table in all different colors and shapes.  If I weren’t so wimpy, I’d be plucking these up and popping them like little nuclear candies.  And so, peppers make way for pumpkins as summer turns to fall – and I’ll be visiting my local farmer’s market again to bring home more fresh fruits of the harvest, and hopefully leave more room for tasting it all.

llapingachos

Ecuador.  My memories of the country are completely vicarious – and yet incredibly vivid.  My friend Linda spent her study abroad there in college, writing me breathlessly unfolding letters of her time in Quito.  Through her blossoming stories, I saw the bustling streets, shared a joke with the American ex-pats, and smoked a cigarette with the locals.  I would fall asleep in my messy dorm room dreaming of Ecuador with the sheaf of papers crumpled under my pillow.  This year, my false memories re-awakened as Wes visited Quito and the Galapagos.  And so I added to my collection of vignettes, stories of fresh-caught fish and instant coffee breakfasts.  With Ecuador in mind, I made some llapingachos for a taste of the country I’ve known but never seen.

Llapingachos – perfectly snackable potato cakes.  The crispy pancakes with a cheesy mashed potato middle go wonderfully well with the peanut sauce – made a bit different with tomatoes and onions.  I highly recommend trying them together, but they’d be just as satisfying with some fresh salsa instead.  You can also experiment with the cheese, I went with the recipe’s Münster but may try queso fresco which might be more authentic.  The annatto oil imparts a beautiful orange color, but I’m not sure how much it really changes the flavor.  A taste of Ecuador, for Linda.

Llapingachos with Peanut Sauce

Gourmet, September 2007,  Melissa Roberts and Maggie Ruggiero

1 and 1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1/3 cup plus 1/2 cup finely chopped scallions, divided

6 tablespoons annatto oil, divided ( simmer 1 tablespoon annatto/achiote seeds in 1/3 cup olive oil for 2 minutes then let stand for 10 minutes, strain oil)

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 medium tomato, chopped

3/4 cup mild

1/2 cup crunchy peanut butter

6 ounces Münster cheese, coarsely grated (2 cups)

Peel potatoes and cut into 1 inch pieces.  Cover potatoes with cold water in a medium pot, then stir in 1 teaspoon salt and simmer until very tender, about 18 minutes.

While potatoes simmer, cook garlic and 1/3 cup scallions in 2 tablespoons annatto oil in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes.  Stir in cumin and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring, 1 minute.  Add tomato and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.  Add milk and bring to a bare simmer, then remove from heat and stir in peanut butter until combined well.  Keep peanut sauce warm, covered, off heat.

Drain potatoes, then mash in a bowl.

Cook remaining 1/2 cup scallions with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in 2 tablespoons annatto oil in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring, until scallions are softened, then stir into potatoes along with cheese.  Form potato mixture into 8 balls and flatten each into a 3-inch patty.

Heat 1 tablespoon annatto oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then fry cakes in 2 batches, turning over once, until crusty, about 6 minutes per batch.  Add remaining tablespoon annatto oil for second batch.

Gently reheat peanut sauce, thinning to a creamy consistency with a little water if necessary.  Season sauce with salt and serve with potato cakes.

Makes 8 three-inch llapingachos

as easy as peach tart

Some parts of the country have had extensions in their peach season (oh global warming, how delicious you are!) and we get to luck out as a result.  I like fruit pies, but get a bit grossed out if they’re too syrupy.  Especially cherry – the smooshy cherryskin carcasses always gave me the creeps.  Enter the tart – light, delicate, and fresh.   This recipe tastes like summer on a plate – the peaches are front and foremost, lightly highlighted with a drizzle of honey, a pat of butter, and a sprinkle of almonds.  Top it with some whipped mascarpone, and you’ve just made some humble peaches very happy.

Honey-glazed Peach tart with Mascarpone Cream

Bon Appétit, August 2003

Crust

1 and 1/2 cups all purpose flour

3 tablespoons powdered sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch cubes

3 and 1/2 tablespoons ice water

Filling

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons all purpose flour

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

6 ripe medium peaches, peeled, halved, pitted, cut into 1/2 inch thick slices (about 4 cups)

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

2 tablespoons sliced almonds

2 tablespoons peach preserves, melted

Mascarpone cream

1 cup chilled whipping cream

6 tablespoons mascarpone cheese

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

For crust:

Blend flour, sugar, and salt in processor.  Using on/off turns, cut in butter until pea-size pieces form.  With machine running, add enough ice water by tablespoonfuls to form moist clumps.  Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk.  Wrap in plastic; refrigerate 1 hour.  Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 12-inch round.  Transfer to 9-inch diamter tart pan with removable bottom.  Trim overhang to 1 inch.  Fold overhang in and press to form double-thick sides.  Press inside edge of crust to push it 1/8 to 1/4 inch above top edge of pan.  Pierce bottom of crust with fork.  Refrigerate 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 400°F.  Bake tart crust until golden, piercing with fork if bubbles form, about 25 minutes.  Can be made 1 day ahead – cool, wrap in plastic and store at room temperature.

For filling:

Mix sugar, flour, and lemon peel in large bowl to blend.  Add peaches and toss to coat.  Pour into baked crust.  Drizzle honey over peach mixture; dot with butter and sprinkle with almonds.  Bake until peaches are tender and almonds are toasted, about 35 minutes.  Brush fruit and almonds with peach preserves.  Cool 15 minutes before serving.  Can be made 6 hours ahead – store tart at room temperature.

For mascarpone cream:

Using electric mixer, beat cream, mascarpone, sugar, and vanilla in large bowl until peaks form.

Slice tart and serve with dollops of mascarpone cream.

Makes 6-8 servings

a fire in the belly

Summer is ending, but here in the sunshine state grilling season is in full bloom.  Every saturday and every Gator game, you can smell the earthy smoke in the air and hear the sizzle of the heat.  My uncle in Bangladesh took great pride in his grilling skills (as many XYs do); he would prepare for a week – choosing cuts of various meats, mixing spicy  yogurt marinades, and skewering kebabs all for the grand finale in a flaming hot fire coaxed over a clay pit.  Me – I’d much rather enjoy the rewards than stand watch over the flames.  I guess that teenage pyromaniac that burned a hole in my parents’ dining room table didn’t quite survive with me to adulthood.

Here, a grill-worthy recipe for vegetarians and their tolerant loved ones.  Wes’ mom passed this one down to me and it makes for a delicious and hearty meal.   I didn’t mess with the recipe the first time except substituting my beloved black beans for the red/kidney beans.  But I think next time I may toss in some mushrooms for a different texture and increase the chili wattage even more.  The burgers freeze extremely well, and in northern climates can be fried up over a stove to spicy results.

Chili Burgers

Moosewood Restaurant Low-Fat Favorites, The Moosewood Collective

1 cup chopped onion

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/2 cup peeled, grated carrot

1 and 1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon cumin

Two 15oz cans of pinto, kidney (or black) beans

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons ketchup or 1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 and 1/2 cups rolled oats

salt and pepper to taste

Saute onion and garlic in oil about 5 minutes, until softened.

Add carrots, chili powder, and cumin.  Cook on low about 5 minutes.  Set aside.

Mash drained beans in large bowl with potato masher.  Add mustard, soy sauce, ketchup and sauteed vegetables.  Mix in oats.  Add salt and pepper to taste.

Moisten hands and form burger mixture into six 3-4 inch patties.  Lightly spray or oil skillet (or grill) and cook burgers on medium to low heat about 5-8 minutes per side.

the cupcakes that started it all

When I was young, my mom told me that a freckle on your right hand is a sign of a good cook.  As I searched my limbs for this cosmic trait, my eyes widened at the freckle above my elbow.  Does that even count?  It’s on my arm.  In Bengali, haath can mean hand or arm, so I was uncertain of my fate.  My mom deftly exercised her own freckle-power; armed with my grandmother’s million variations on curry, she came to America and added a delectable Thanksgiving turkey, a rustic spaghetti, and my favorite french toast to her repertoire.  In comparison, I’m pretty sure my freckle is too far up to have an effect.  And yet, it’s just too much fun cooking, baking, learning and trying (despite some inedible disasters along the way).

One of my husband’s great loves is the cupcake.  So naturally, I had to master that little harlot if I was going to truly keep his undivided attention.  Six years ago, my friend Julie was living in New york and she told me of this famous bakery that made the most delicious everything.  For my birthday, she sent me The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook with some fabulous raspberry crumb squares that she made.  Two weeks later, I made their vanilla cupcakes for Wes’ birthday and it was love at first bite.  Perfectly moist, crumby, buttery goodness topped with real buttercream – guaranteed to kickstart your own cupcake love story.

Traditional Vanilla Birthday Cake

The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook, Jennifer Appel and Allysa Torrey

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

2 cups sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1 and 1/2 cups self-rising flour

1 and 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line two 12-cup muffin tins with cupcake papers.

In a large bowl, one the medium speed of an electric mixer, cream the butter until smooth.  Add the sugar gradually and beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Combine the flours and add in four parts, alternating with the milk and the vanilla extract, beating well after each addition.

Spoon the batter into the cups about three-quarters full.  Bake until tops spring back when lightly touched, about 20-22 minutes.  Remove cupcakes from pans and cool completely on a rack before icing.

Makes 24 cupcakes or 1 three-layer 9-inch cake

Traditional Vanilla Buttercream

The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook, Jennifer Appel and Allysa Torrey

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, very soft

8 cups confectioner’s sugar

1/2 cup milk

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Place butter in a large mixing bowl.  Add 4 cups of the sugar and then the milk and the vanilla extract.  Beat until smooth and creamy.  Gradually add the remaining sugar, 1 cup at a time, until icing is thick enough to be of good spreading consistency (you may very well not need all of the sugar).  If desired, add a few drops of food coloring and mix thoroughly.  Use and store icing at room temperature, as icing will set if chilled.  Can store in airtight container up to three days.

a reason

foodie? gourmand? loca-ovo-picavore? i should cocoa!

rather, tummy goes grumble-grumble and chop-whisk-pour later: nom nom nom.

simple as that.